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Brew Day Video!

7 September 2011

I recently acquired a video camera, and decided to test it out filming a brew session! We currently brew on the back patio of our parents’ house, and it’s not the greatest location for filming. It’s quite cramped, and depending on which direction you shoot, the background isn’t going to be very flattering. Nonetheless, I captured enough footage for a video, and although at times its not perfectly in focus, I’m pleased with the results, and hopefully you will be too :)



This video is taken from our 47th batch: a (hopefully) light and refreshing summer ale. As I write this it’s happily fermenting away in our fermentation chest. This recipe incorporates a malt we’ve never used before: Belgian Aromatic malt, which should impart a very malty, biscuity flavour. It also calls for the most hops we’ve ever used in a recipe: 5.5oz! Most of these are late addition hops (4oz @ flameout!), so we should get a nice citrusy aroma and flavour without too much bitterness.

Our 50th brew is fast approaching and we’re going to have to do something special for it. We’ve got a couple ideas kicking around, but right now we’re focusing on formulating our next Christmas beer. Last year we made a rich, spiced ale, which was really nice but was a little too spiced. This year I think we’re going to push the alcohol content up a bit, tone down the spice bill (probably drop the clove for my brother’s sake), try a different yeast and reformulate the malt bill. Ah yes, winter trully is the best time of year for brewing.

Yeast!

8 June 2011

Well it’s taken a while for us to understand the importance of what makes good beer, good beer.  That would be healthy and happy yeast.  I’m not sure what it is about yeast and fermentation that appears to be not very important when you first start homebrewing?  But talk to most any homebrewer and they will admit that when they started brewing, they spent most of their energy/time/money developing recipes, perfecting brewing processes, acquiring new brewing equipment, etc.  When a beer turned out less than impressive, the typical response was to examine that list of ”important” aspects and make tweaks.  After a bunch of batches where you tweak every little thing and nothing really improves the beer, many homebrewers get frustrated and quit brewing.  Thats a shame because it really just comes down to a lack of info.

I’m too lazy to look up the quote and who said it, but I’ll paraphrase “the brewer simply makes wort, it is the yeast that make beer”.  This couldn’t be more spot on.  You could make the greatest wort ever created in history and with a bad ferment, it’ll be shit beer.  I’m not sure why this point is not driven home to new brewers.  It might be because people are afraid of overwhelming new homebrewers, or don’t think that new brewers are capable of grasping the concept.  Homebrewers get all sorts of advice on recipes and hop additions and maybe even type of yeast to use, but hardly ever is the importance of fermentation really stressed.  Knowing what I know now, if someone who was just starting out homebrewing asked me for advice, my recommendations would go something like this:

  • Sanitize everything after wort is cooled.  Be anal.
  • Begin with a VERY simple extract recipe.  Don’t stress very much about times, temps and amounts.  Just get the wort in the carboy.
  • Don’t get any fancy equipment.  The first thing you should buy after the standard initial gear (e.g. carboy, spoon, bucket, big pot) is a temperature controller ($50-100).
  • Ferment your first batch of wort with dry yeast (e.g. Nottingham).  Hydrate it properly and put 90% of your brewing energy into keeping the temperature of the carboy below 70F for the first 3 days of fermentation.  Best case scenario is you get a temp. controller and put your carboy in an old fridge/freezer.  Boom.
  • Slowly begin raising the temp. after 3 days of ferment. to around 70F over a week or so.
  • Bottling = clean and sanitized
  • After drinking early batches, slowly begin expanding recipes, equipment, processes, etc.
  • One of the very first upgrades of recipe should be moving to liquid yeast.  Learn about starters, and learn more about yeast/fermentation.  Learn WHY things are the way they are for ferment., not just steps to follow.  Continue spending 90% of your time/energy on the ferment.

Well that was a lengthy lead in, but here is the newest addition to our operation:

A stir plate!

Needs one more hole in the front so the switch will fit (my biggest drill bit was not big enough), but it works fine.  I was very close to paying $60-80 for one off the internet (+ shipping).  Thank god I chose to build it cause this was really fun to build and super cheap and easy.   Build process went as such:  Watched a youTube vid.  Spent $7 @ Lee’s Electronics on Main Street (Vancouver) for switch, potentiometer and knob.  Spent $10 @ Rona for the magnets & rubber feet and they gave me the wood for free.  Used an old comp. fan we had and a power supply I found at work (basically any wall charger, incl. cell phone chargers).

First starter spinning away:

(Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager yeast for our second go at an Oktoberfest)

 

Award Winning Homebrew

8 June 2011

Well, there’s been some changes in the past few months and as a result we no longer make beer.  Now we make AWARD WINNING beer!  Now don’t think this is gonna go to our heads, oh no, we’re just the same old homebrewers we’ve always been.  We still put our pants on one leg at a time, only now when our pants are on, we make award winning beer.

That is much easier to type as I have a tough time saying it with a straight face :)

Our 2nd ever lager we brewed (Dortmunder Export) took a bronze medal at the homebrew competition in Lethbridge Alberta earlier this year.  That gives us 1 point towards the Canadian Homebrewer of the Year.  That might just be enough to push us over the top………………………..or not.  Next year.  *Edit: Our first ESB (Ken Kettlesworth) just took silver in the Montreal competition (June 2011).  Make that 3 points!

We have entered a few competitions this year which has been a great experience.  From brewday to shipping the entries across the country to a competition, it’s surprising how much effort and planning goes into getting a good beer into the judges hands.  The competition season is pretty much over now, but we had some pretty good feedback on the entries (both positive and negative).  The Good:  The Dortmunder and our Belgian Dark Strong.  The belgian is the strongest beer we’ve made to date at ~9% ABV and we’re very happy with how it turned out.  The Bad:  Our Hefe.  While you might be able to ferment good, healthy Wyeast 3068 at 62F to obtain a nice balance of banana and clove flavours, apparently you don’t wanna do this with dry “Weizen” yeast.     To anyone that homebrews, I would strongly recommend entering some of your beers into competitions.  Apart from being fun and having the chance at winning stuff, the feedback you get from impartial judging (read: not your friends) is invaluable in terms of improving your beer in the future.  With beer we’ve brewed, after tasting it throughout the process and maturation, by the time it is in the keg/bottle and ready to drink I want it to be good so badly that I often convince myself that it is good.  Kinda like wearing rose coloured glasses for your mouth (wow that sounds like a Keith’s commercial).    Number 1 tip for entering a competition: Good bottling process!    Apart from having good beer, that part is up to you really, bottling with clean bottles, proper carbonation and without contamination or oxygen exposure is key.  Once you’ve spent hours making your beer, the tendency is to slack off a bit on bottling.  Don’t!  It only takes a couple extra minutes to be vigilant and is so worth it. 

We learned a ton this year and will put all that to good use next year as your really need to go into the competition season (first 5/6 months of the year) ready to rock.  IPAs, Hefes, etc. you should be brewing close to the competition date, maybe a month or two before, but many other beers can be brewed and stored cold just sitting and waiting for the comps.

So anyway, lots of stuff has been bought, built or improved over the past few months, where to start?

Well, we’ve finally started achieving proper mash-outs (~170F) thanks to the bright idea of using our chiller for both good and evil. 

[PIC]

At present it gets the job done but it’s pretty crude.  The plan is to incorporate the chiller into the lid of the mash tun to prevent so much heat loss.

Easily the biggest addition has been this:

A 4 tap kegging system!  Built it using a chest freezer that perfectly holds 4 corny kegs.  Perfectly is an understatement, this freezer was MADE for this.  Went the route of building a 6″ wood collar around the top of the chest freezer and then mounting the freezer lid onto the collar.  Would highly recommend going this route with a chest freezer vs. drilling anything into the freezer itself.  It was pretty darn easy to make, allows more head room within the freezer and looks nice too.  Gotta add a drip tray under the taps, but at this point I couldn’t be happier with it.  The gas manifold seen below, is frickin money and I’m very happy we put it in.  It makes it so much easier to deal with hoses/connections within the freezer.  For parts: the taps, shanks and gas manifold were bought from PN Tech in Burnaby, BC.  If you have a draft system and live in/near Vancouver, that place is awesome.  Got the regulator, and temp. controller from Morebeer.com, also a good place.  Built the collar from 2×6′s with 1×10′s around the outside for a more finished look.  Still needs a drip tray and maybe some funky tap handles.

 

Oh, one word of warning, which pretty much goes with any kegging system.  When you hook up only the gas side of a keg and leave the beer-out post disconnected from the beer line, be sure that beer post doesn’t leak!  Another good thing is to make sure the drain plug near the bottom of the freezer is CLOSED.  That way when you connect a keg of chocolate porter to the gas only and it leaks and fills up the inside of the freezer, the beer remains within the freezer instead of on your white carpet.  Things you just don’t really think about until you have to pull your living room carpet up.

Full Circle

30 January 2011

We’re back where we started. Today marks the brewday of our 30th batch. And what better way to commemorate the event than to re-brew the first beer we brewed all-grain, on our dual-keg/burner system: the Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA.

We’ve made some alterations from last time, and are using a recipe found in the BYO special clone recipe issue. The first time we brewed this beer we got the recipe from the internet (where else!), and were pleased with the results, but knew it could be improved. The hop bill is considerably different (yay Palisade!), the yeast we’re using this time gives a low attenuation (Wyeast 1187) instead of the insane attenuation provided by Pacman yeast (it got its name for a reason!) and our process is vastly refined. The biggest differences in our process are in the mash, and fermentation.

Up until this very brew we have lost considerable heat over the course of a 60 minute mash. It is very important to hold a constant temperature during a single infusion mash, as it affects the fermentability and repeatability of your beer. Today we’re doing something different. We sit the mash tun on a heating pad, and wrap a heating blanket around the mash tun, both set to high. We also start the mash a couple degrees above our target temperature, to account for the heat loss that occurs from the large amount of cold air in the upper half of the mash tun. As I write this, there’s 10 minutes left in the mash, so I’ll update this post later with the results!

As for the fermentation, well things have changed considerably. The storage room in our apartment’s basement used to serve as the fermentation house, where depending on time of year, the temperature can be as low as 58F, or higher than 70F. Now we ferment in a chest freezer, controlled by a digital temperature controller, and aerate the wort pre-fermentation with an oxygen stone to ensure the yeast has all the oxygen it needs to reproduce. We also do 2L yeast starters (or more!) for every beer, where we used to horribly underpitch (according to Jamil anyway).

That about sums things up for now. I will update this post with the results of our 30th brew. Cheers!

The Great Pumpkin Experiment

14 October 2010


Cask O Lantern Pumpkin Ale safely in its home

It’s been a while since our last update, but that doesn’t mean we haven’t been brewing! In fact, a lot has been going on around here; we’ve brewed a Fat Tire clone, a Phillip’s Chocolate Porter clone, a not-so-imperial Imperial Stout, a Christmas spiced ale we’re calling the Fireside Warmer, but most importantly, we’ve got a temperature controlled fermentation chest and a kegging system now!

Enough of that. What we’re all here for today is to talk about a little experiment I decided to try: brewing a real pumpkin ale.. and fermenting it inside a pumpkin.

I decided at the last minute to try this in order to have it ready for an upcoming Halloween party in just over 2 weeks. And as is generally the case, the higher the gravity of the beer (read: alcohol content), the longer it takes to mature and get past the “green” stage. So, with absolutely no time to spare, I had little choice but to brew a ‘small’ beer that’s base recipe is roughly that of an English Bitter (3-4% ABV).

Two ~10 lb. pumpkins were harmed in the making of this beer: one I got from a pumpkin patch in Chilliwack (which is where the whole idea began), and the other from my neighbourhood IGA.

What follows is my sleep-deprived account of two harrowing evenings spent in the apartment, battling pumpkin innards, the mash (and sparge) from hell, and just a general lack of proper brewing equipment (all of our brewing equipment is conveniently located at our parent’s house)…

Evening One: The House on Hamburger Hill

 

Makin' Bakin'

Things started off just peachy. My girlfriend helped me wash, de-gut and carve up the pumpkins.. then she disappeared to do homework for the rest of the night (thanks for the help! :P ) It took much longer than I had planned, mostly due to separating the damn seeds from the guts. Nevertheless, the pumpkin chunks and seeds went into the oven and emerged a while later, ready for the next step: the mash.

Somewhere I got the idea of taking the roasted pumpkin seeds, cracking them, and adding them to the mash along with the rest of the grains. Well, we don’t have a grain mill, or a rolling pin, so out came a large mallet (ahem, Gordon Ramsey’s finest sauce pot) and a ziplock bag.

We had received a bag of Pale Chocolate Malt from a member of our homebrew club, but the grain was uncracked, and we don’t have a scale to weigh out the 1/10th of a pound that I needed to darken up the brew and give it some roast.

Need 1/10th of a pound of Pale Chocolate Malt and don't have a scale? Improvise!

The issue of cracking the grain was already solved with the pumpkin seeds, but to measure out 1/10th of a pound I MacGyvered a makeshift scale using a ruler and 2 tupperware containers (and then proceeded to defuse the bomb with it). All of this was taking precious time I didn’t have, as the nefarious evil known as ‘bedtime’ was rapidly approaching.

Perhaps the only smart thing I did the rest of the night after baking and crushing up the pumpkin was to divide the flesh into two large hop bags and mix them up with rice hulls (to help spread the pumpkin flesh apart and reduce the inevitable clumping).

You do the mash! You do the puuuumpkin mash!

I didn’t really have anything to mash in, so I mashed in the brew kettle (big aluminum pot) and tried to manage the burner and stir to keep an even temperature of 150F throughout. Well, easier said than done. Temperatures seemed to range from 138F all the way to 168F if I left the pot unattended for more than a couple minutes. Or was it just the broken digital thermometer I was using that we had gotten rid of for being inaccurate? Either way, mash efficiency soon became a serious concern.

If I was missing the brewing system we normally use then, collecting the wort and sparging only made it worse. After mashing for an hour, separating the wort from the grains and pumpkin was an absolute nightmare, and the kitchen could only be described as a scene from a Vietnam war movie. Grains and wort went everywhere: the floor, the cabinets, the oven – not to mention my clothes. I was trying to strain the contents of the brew kettle through a pasta strainer that was not nearly big enough to hold the volume of grain and pumpkin flesh falling out of the pot. The battle lasted probably an hour, and after giving up on mash efficiency I had collected 2.5 gallons of super-hazy wort. Time for cleanup and bed - almost four hours after my bed time.

Evening Two: Return to Castle Pumpkenstein

Things were starting to look up. Thanks to the wort sitting in a carboy overnight, much of the grains and crud that had made it into the wort had settled to the bottom and I was able to rack the wort off the sediment into the brew kettle, producing a liquid that finally resembled wort and no longer a swamp. I topped the brew kettle up with an additional couple liters of water to bring my pre-boil volume to 3 gallons.

Raising the wort to boiling temperature took longer than I had become accustomed too, and I was starting to fear a repeat performance. Eventually it did boil, and I carried out an hour long boil, adding my hops, spices and vanilla along the way. Upon sitting the brew kettle in a cold water bath, all I could smell was pumpkin pie. And it tasted like it too, from the hydrometer sample I tried. Apparently the boil had really brought out a lot of the missing flavour from the pumpkin flesh. Finally, a good sign.

Touch Down! Now THIS is cask ale.

After conceding defeat on the first night I had given up on the idea of fermenting inside a pumpkin and was content to give this brew a second chance at life by safely fermenting in a regular carboy. My brother wouldn’t hear of it. I transferred the cooled wort to a carboy, shook the hell out of it to aerate and pitched the yeast starter my brother helped me prepare the night before. After thoroughly mixing the yeast in the wort, I racked half of the 2.5 gallons into the other pumpkin I had hollowed out, slapped an airlock in it and threw it in our fermentation freezer. Only three hours late for bed this time!

I’ve never been so glad to be done a brew session before, and hopefully never will be again. It’s funny thinking how far we’ve come in terms of our brewing process, and when having to go back to a low-tech brewing solution, everything falls apart again.

Oh well, lesson learned. Now I can eagerly anticipate this pumpkin ale, which, after tasting before fermentation, shows a lot of promise :)

 

Update (October 20th, 2010):

Last night I took gravity readings on both vessels and, of course, tasted the samples:

Batch fermented in Carboy:

  • SG: 1.009 – 75% AA – Looks like fermentation is complete
  • “Pumpkin pie” spice aroma subdued from before fermentation, apparent mostly in background and finish.
  • As expected, I waaaay overbittered this recipe. For whatever reason I didn’t pay much attention to the hop bill, and ended up with around 27 IBUs. In a 1.038 beer that’s supposed to be on the maltier side, this is beyond overkill. Hopefully it will mellow somewhat in the next 10 days.
  • Otherwise tastes “green” or young, as expected. It’s been a while since I tasted a beer after only 6 days fermentation, so hopefully “green” is what I’m tasting.

Batch fermented in Pumpkin:

  • SG: 1.010 – 73% AA – Looks like fermentation is mostly complete too. My guess for the higher SG than the carboy is the extra stress on the yeast and/or enzymes/proteins  present in the pumpkin. Either way, I’m pleased to see that the yeast attenuated so well, and didn’t choke and die immediately :P
  • Ahhhh yes, the flavour. What can I say about the flavour? Let me first say, it is common to age wine, spirits or even beer in oak or other barrels to impart some of that flavour into the beverage. So fermenting beer inside a pumpkin should impart some of that pumpkin flavour right? Well sure. The catch is that raw pumpkin doesn’t taste good. Not even remotely. So now my beer tastes like raw, less-than-ripe, pumpkin. At what point did I think this would be a good idea?

Double the batch, double the day?

29 June 2010

The reality is that doubling the recipe size should not result in a brew day being twice as long.  However, what we have learned so far is “that which takes time, takes more time for us!”  Well it was our first ever double batch (10 G) so maybe that could be revised to “that which takes time, takes more time for us the first time.”

Anyway, one of our goofs from our recent English Bitter brew day (may have) resulted in the best mash efficiency (by far) we’ve realized to date.

Brew Bru

Anyone for twins?

The goof:   Forgetting that heating twice as much sparge water takes nearly twice as long.          Result: 90 min mash and a 75% calculated mash efficiency!  Now if only sanitation issues would result in such positive things.

Another first from this brew was the time to fermentation blast off.  Less than 24 hours for high krausen!      Reason:   Likely the making of our first ale starter.  Wyeast 1178 Ringwood Ale yeast (Propogator) was pitched into a 1L starter of light DME.  This starter was split into the two 5 G carboys, which MrMalty still considers to be underpitching actually, but better than we have been doing anyway.

What started out as a Boddington clone has since been lumped back into the category of English Bitter.  Although, the colour should be pretty close, the yeast used sounds different from the character of the yeast used in Boddingtons so we’ll see.

Hops, betcha can’t taste just one!

28 April 2010
release the alpha acids!

So we had this great idea of getting a bunch of different hop varietals and “tasting” each one for a comparison.  HA!

What resulted was 2 beer geeks getting close to the edge of sanity and 1 unsuspecting friend that got a little more than he bargained for  (thanks Rich, your input was, well  inputed).

To start, go to Dan’s Homebrewing Supplies and get a quarter ounce each of 10 different whole hops, and get them individually bagged.  Then check the look on the faces of the staff.  Preferably do this right at closing time for best results!

Too bad GE doesn't make a 10 burner stove

What we now had was:

  1. Amarillo – 9% alpha acid
  2. Cascade – 7%
  3. Centennial -  9%
  4. Glacier – 7%
  5. Goldings – 4.5%
  6. Magnum – 15%
  7. Northern Brewer – 7.3%
  8. Simcoe – 12.9%
  9. Willamette – 4.8%
  10. Zeus – 9%

The intent of this tasting was to get a better idea of the flavours associated with each hop.  The longer you boil hops the more alpha acids you extract from them which is largely responsible for bitterness. The less time spent boiling, the less bitterness and more flavour you receive from the hops.  Figuring a 15 min boil would be a good compromise between bitterness and flavour, each hop was boiled in 1L of water for 15 min, then cooled and strained into a glass. This boil time proved excessive as the final product was very bitter and this ratio of water to hops is $%@*!^# HARSH!!!  It burns it burns.  The glasses were then diluted 50%, which made them drinkable (or less undrinkable).

Move over milk & cookies, here comes triscuits & hops! (first person to identify that book gets a free carboy)

The three of us tasted and re-tasted all the hop waters and attempted to come to a consensus on the degree of  the various flavours possessed by each hop.  We decided the three main or common characteristics of the hop flavour were: citrus, floral and spicy.  Some notable characteristics we found were:

  • Amarillo: very floral taste
  • Cascade: good balance, grapefuit flavour
  • Glacier: toasty flavour to it and was not very bitter
  • Goldings: mild on all fronts
  • Magnum: a frickin spice bomb, it was really hard to identify anything else (it also had the highest alpha acid content and would appear to be a better bittering hop than flavour/aroma)
  • Simcoe: the most citrusy of the hops
  • Willamette: the least citrusy or bitter

Now as this tasting went along, we were constantly re-tasting each glass to keep our rating system consistent.  The problem with drinking this much hop water is that it starts making you feel odd. Very odd.  All broski kept saying was “man I don’t feel right”.  I don’t really know how to describe this other than it made me basically lose my mind briefly.  I heard somewhere that hops are related (distantly?) to marijuana which may explain the laughing fit that I was sent into after we ran out of triscuits and cheese (my body’s way of crying I think).  As a result, our findings are not of the highest quality and this test will likely be performed again under more humane conditions.

no really, I'll be OK

Breaking in the New Digs – Dogfish Head IPA

22 April 2010

After much cutting and welding (thanks Cam!) we were ready to take our new 10 gallon, “single-tiered” (read: multi-tiered) setup through its first batch. And what better way to commemorate the occasion than a tricky recipe like a Dogfish Head 60-minute IPA clone! Besides the nice brewing hardware Aaron returned with from our neighbours to the South, he brought back some interesting hops: Amarillo and Simcoe.

..and this is BEFORE dry hopping.

These American hops are fairly new, and have a very citrusy and floral character. They smell fantastic. Luckily, our Dogfish Head IPA clone recipe calls for both these hops as the main flavour and aroma hops, as well as for dry hopping.

Well, after getting our apartment setup down to a “science”, we figured we had a handle on all the variables now, and this new system would be a breeze. We’re stupid like that. What ensued was a very uncoordinated endeavor, resulting in pretty much everything going wrong that could go wrong. We boiled waaaaay too much water in our HLT (fancy acronym for our hot water boiling keg) which pushed our Mom’s dinner back by about 2 hours, inhaled serious paint fumes from our new burners (why do you apply paint where there’s going to be intense fire?), and worst of all, didn’t use a hop bag when hopping the boil. When it came time to empty our brew kettle into our fermenting carboy, surprise surprise, it clogged. Bad. Real bad. So bad, the only way we could get the beer into the carboy was to scoop it out with a plastic jug. As you can see in the photo, all the hops made it into the carboy. Whoops.

We’ve since racked the beer into the secondary fermenter and added the dry hops. Our first batch on the new system should be good! Ask us and maybe you’ll be  lucky enough to try it.

Burners, Fittings and Kegs, Oh My!

22 April 2010

Now with easy to read graduations!

Actually really dangerous

Aaron has weathered not only the treacherous Canadian-American border, but the seedy scrap yards of East Vancouver, and returned with a treasure trove of brewing hardware delights! Let’s see what secrets await…

  • Stainless steel and brass fittings, including (but not limited to) 1/2″ thru-wall weldless spigots, ball-valves, hose barbs and bulk-heads.
  • 2 x “reclaimed” stainless steel 13.5 gallon beer kegs.
  • 2 x 185,000 BTU outdoor propane burners. (I know, right?)
  • And special thanks to Aaron’s good friend ‘Campo’, we have a super slick welded steel frame.

We’re still waiting for the piece that will make this new setup really come alive, but we’ll be sure and post an update when it arrives. Until then, we’ll be breaking in the burners and kegs, ironing out the kinks of our new system, and hopefully, most importantly, brewing some tasty beer!

This setup is 100% Tim Taylor certified. Ho ho hell ya

It Has Begun!

22 April 2010

"Double Boiler"

You'll never lauter alone..

It began in our humble apartment, with pots too small to hold a single 5 gallon batch. Staggering the boils on the two half-batches was necessary to ensure a “60 minute boil” each, since we only had one immersion chiller. And, since we only had one lid, it meant swapping the lid back and forth to get the pots to a boil – a boil that took an hour to achieve. We’ll never forget that first full-grain batch, with our (very questionably built) mash tun. Oh, and dumping the spent grains down the garborator – not the greatest idea! At least I know there’s a fuse now… And who knew fermentation temperature was so important? Why can’t we ferment in our 75 F+ apartment? Pffffftt “off flavours”.

But it’s all been worth it, we’ve learned tons, and after the sweat and toil, made some pretty mediocre beer. Just ask our friends who will probably refuse to sample our next batch! Now it’s time to pick ourselves up, dust ourselves off, and venture deeper into the dangerous world of home-fermented beverages!

Cheers!